FORUM > PARKS > MINIRAMP RENO QUESTION

Miniramp reno question

[man down]
[man down] 11:44 03/Nov/05

I'm putting some fresh ply on my mini and wanted to place the sheets on an angle because I think that might overcome some of the buckling that started to occur at the ends. Does someone know for what other reasons this is done?

And... at what angle do you place the sheets? (Is this important?)


Fetus 12:21 03/Nov/05

I'd go for 45degrees, so then you could fit offcuts in other places easier. I was going to do the same to my ramp, if I can't get a hold of some hARD surface!

[man down]
[man down] 12:38 03/Nov/05

45 degrees, good tip and that makes sense.

geebz 13:17 03/Nov/05

yeah 45degrees. Its done so that you arent hitting the entire join between sheets at the same time. Making it smoother/quieter.

Justin Sawell 13:17 03/Nov/05

Stops it buckling and also looks rad in photos (like this one).

Can also reduce the annoying thunk-thunk, thunk-thunk noise as you run over the joins. On my old mini it happened where the flat joined the transition.

RE: Miniramp reno question

Surfer Sam 14:00 03/Nov/05

the buckling at the end occurs most cause water gets into the join, and starts to disolve the glue - it does this very easy on the end grain. Once the glue has started to perish the force of the expanding wood will de-laminate the ply.

so... before laying the sheets (whatever direction) epoxy the ends of the sheet or use a good paint. Epoxy is good cause it soaks in.

Surfer Sam 14:04 03/Nov/05

..also, if your ramp is outside, make sure you give it a coupla coats of paint... put haeps at the joins.

[man down]
[man down] 14:35 03/Nov/05

45 degrees, good tip and that makes sense.

[man down]
[man down] 14:47 03/Nov/05

thanks sam and geebz. I have that problem of the ply delaminating cause I didn't paint the ends, and it has caused the screws to pop out because of all the expansion.The thunk thunk sound does get repetitive and loud and probably doesn't please our conservative neighbours!

Fetus 21:48 03/Nov/05

Paint does not do shit!!!
On my ramp it didn't anyway. I put one layer of anti rot stuff then 3 layers of paint and the ply still bubbled up in about a month! I have ridden ramps that just sit and bake in the sun and the ply was fine for ages. Fuck.

Justin Sawell 11:24 07/Nov/05

Check the kind of ply as well. Fetus - your ramp may have been surfaced with ordinary ply. My old man used to work for a ply manufacturer and we used marine ply instead of regular ply. Had no problems at all for 5 years out in the weather SANS PAINT. Sounds like the kind of surfacing you're describing there...

Marine ply is worth the extra cost.

Fetus 13:38 07/Nov/05

Yeh, well it already cost $3500, so marine ply was quite out of the question!! I have seen thick marine ply used for the sides/deck of ramps, but I didn't know if you can get 7mm marine ply that bends??? I have never seen it used for the tranny...

How much per sheet is 7mm marine ply, if you can remember off the top of your head?

mat_nasty 14:26 07/Nov/05

we got a shite load of marine ply from a friend that worked at a tyre distribution centre...they put a layer down and then the tyres. some was kinda worn but worked well. It was about 7mm (may have been 5mm) and it bent easily

45 degress is definately the go

Trogdor the Burninat 15:53 07/Nov/05

45' is the best way to go, it will be the quietest.

but if it's not exact it shouldn't matter. As long as all sheets are parallel the off cuts should work else where.

Mo Lester 13:53 08/Nov/05

Hey Justin Sawell, where are you from & how do you know about that mini in the picture ?


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Miniramp reno question
FORUM > PARKS > MINIRAMP RENO QUESTION

Miniramp reno question

[man down]
[man down] 11:44 03/Nov/05

I'm putting some fresh ply on my mini and wanted to place the sheets on an angle because I think that might overcome some of the buckling that started to occur at the ends. Does someone know for what other reasons this is done?

And... at what angle do you place the sheets? (Is this important?)


Fetus 12:21 03/Nov/05

I'd go for 45degrees, so then you could fit offcuts in other places easier. I was going to do the same to my ramp, if I can't get a hold of some hARD surface!

[man down]
[man down] 12:38 03/Nov/05

45 degrees, good tip and that makes sense.

geebz 13:17 03/Nov/05

yeah 45degrees. Its done so that you arent hitting the entire join between sheets at the same time. Making it smoother/quieter.

Justin Sawell 13:17 03/Nov/05

Stops it buckling and also looks rad in photos (like this one).

Can also reduce the annoying thunk-thunk, thunk-thunk noise as you run over the joins. On my old mini it happened where the flat joined the transition.

RE: Miniramp reno question

Surfer Sam 14:00 03/Nov/05

the buckling at the end occurs most cause water gets into the join, and starts to disolve the glue - it does this very easy on the end grain. Once the glue has started to perish the force of the expanding wood will de-laminate the ply.

so... before laying the sheets (whatever direction) epoxy the ends of the sheet or use a good paint. Epoxy is good cause it soaks in.

Surfer Sam 14:04 03/Nov/05

..also, if your ramp is outside, make sure you give it a coupla coats of paint... put haeps at the joins.

[man down]
[man down] 14:35 03/Nov/05

45 degrees, good tip and that makes sense.

[man down]
[man down] 14:47 03/Nov/05

thanks sam and geebz. I have that problem of the ply delaminating cause I didn't paint the ends, and it has caused the screws to pop out because of all the expansion.The thunk thunk sound does get repetitive and loud and probably doesn't please our conservative neighbours!

Fetus 21:48 03/Nov/05

Paint does not do shit!!!
On my ramp it didn't anyway. I put one layer of anti rot stuff then 3 layers of paint and the ply still bubbled up in about a month! I have ridden ramps that just sit and bake in the sun and the ply was fine for ages. Fuck.

Justin Sawell 11:24 07/Nov/05

Check the kind of ply as well. Fetus - your ramp may have been surfaced with ordinary ply. My old man used to work for a ply manufacturer and we used marine ply instead of regular ply. Had no problems at all for 5 years out in the weather SANS PAINT. Sounds like the kind of surfacing you're describing there...

Marine ply is worth the extra cost.

Fetus 13:38 07/Nov/05

Yeh, well it already cost $3500, so marine ply was quite out of the question!! I have seen thick marine ply used for the sides/deck of ramps, but I didn't know if you can get 7mm marine ply that bends??? I have never seen it used for the tranny...

How much per sheet is 7mm marine ply, if you can remember off the top of your head?

mat_nasty 14:26 07/Nov/05

we got a shite load of marine ply from a friend that worked at a tyre distribution centre...they put a layer down and then the tyres. some was kinda worn but worked well. It was about 7mm (may have been 5mm) and it bent easily

45 degress is definately the go

Trogdor the Burninat 15:53 07/Nov/05

45' is the best way to go, it will be the quietest.

but if it's not exact it shouldn't matter. As long as all sheets are parallel the off cuts should work else where.

Mo Lester 13:53 08/Nov/05

Hey Justin Sawell, where are you from & how do you know about that mini in the picture ?


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